January 20, 2025 The Newspaper Serving LGBT Los Angeles

Eating at Pacific Park on the Pier Just Got Even Tastier

In June this year, Santa Monica’s beloved oceanfront amusement park welcomed a brand-new eating experience to the Pier. “Snackville”, the brainchild of the late Michelin starred chef James Kent, opened to much fanfare on June 7, treating patrons to iconic Americana fare taken up a notch. 

Ferris wheels and screams of delight may not be normally associated with fine dining, butfans of the park’s former food options shouldn’t worry. Snackville retains the Pier’s original concession stand format and serves up all your favorite treats of yesteryear: think burgers, fries, hotdogs, and of course funnel cakes.

And while the fare is familiar and accessible, it’s also elevated. In overseeing the new venture, Kent, who tragically passed away last month,leaned on his vast experience in the high-stakes restaurant world. His goal to keep things simple and do themexceptionally well is evident in the five new stands he created: Smashie’s Burgers, Mr. Nice Fry, Churrita Churro, Cosmic Funnel Cakes and Scoops Creamery.

Kent saw Snackville as a chance to try new things and have fun. He evenintroduced a host of charming Snackville characters as mascots; the jaunty cartoon burger and a long-lashed churro with high heels recall 1950s concession-stand advertising.

In real life, these characters are as delicious as expected. The centerpiece of Snackville is Smashie’s Burgers, serving a finely-honed version of the popular smash burger. Ground beef is smashed into the hot griddle to deliver maximum crust and maximum flavor, before being topped with American cheese, grilled onions and special “Smashie Sauce” to create a juicy, drippy taste sensation. The stand also offers loaded hot dogs and fries.

If it’s a fun twist on fried potatoes you’re after, try Mr. Nice Fry, which offers several beautifully crispy fry varieties including “Skinny Dippers,” “Swirly Fries” and “Tater Wheels,”all served with tasty dipping sauces and seasonings. Plus, from inside Mr. Nice Fry you can order an eegee, the famous Arizonan beverage made from real fruit.This slushie-like frozen treat has been a summer staple in Arizona since 1971, and now makesits delightful Los Angeles debut — sure to be a calling card for the curious and thirsty alike. 

Then of course there’s dessert. The classic boardwalk treat, the funnel cake, can be found in all its glory at both Cosmic Funnel Cakes and Scoops Creamery, so there’s no excuse to miss out. Made by pouring batter through a funnel into hot oil, the cakes have a distinct airy, crispy texture and can be topped with fresh fruit and whipped cream or just a dusting of powdered sugar for the purists. 

At Scoops Creamery (no relation to the Highland Park store) you can enjoy a scoop of gorgeous Lappert’s ice cream in flavors like Hawaiian Sea Salt Caramel and Lemon Creamsicle, as well as milkshakes and sundaes. But leave room for the churros at Churrita’s: a levelled-up version filled with dulce de leche, dipped in chocolate, or just coated in classic cinnamon-sugar with vanilla soft-serve to dunk.

The opening of Snackville adds a new level of attraction to Pacific Park, a popular tourist spot that already brings in an estimated 12 million visitors annually. The Park is expected to get more upgrades over the next five years, with investment company SC Holdings putting some $10 million in the project.

It was SC Holding’s partnership with celebrated chefJames Kent that led to Snackville’s conception.Chef Kenthoned his skills at renowned kitchens like Babbo and Jean-Georges before joining Eleven Madison Park in New York City, leading the restaurant to three Michelin stars. Kent then went on to launch two Michelin-starred restaurants of his own—Crown Shy and SAGA, both in New York’s financial district—and formed Saga Hospitality Group with SC Holdings.

And while the restaurants James Kent founded sit firmly in the fine dining world, Kent himself was no stranger to the fun of the concession stand.  In September last year the award-winning restauranteur slung chicken sandwiches and toffee pudding for the lucky punters at the US Open in New York.

Chef Kent passed away of a heart attack at age 45 on June 12.

in NEWS
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